Nestled deep in the Himalayan foothills, halfway from Lijiang to Dali, Shaxi is home to a beautifully preserved traditional way of life that offers a glimpse into a forgotten era. Here lies the tranquil Shaxi valley, a sun drenched, fertile plain that follows the gentle Heihui River 黑惠江 (Hēi huì jiāng), a lesser known branch of the Mekong. There is no pollution, no airport and no traffic jams, but these are more than made up for by quiet cobbled streets, spectacular local architecture and impressive courtyard homes. Shaxi has been protected from mass tourism due to its relative distance from popular destinations in Yunnan. But a new highway has made the driving distance from Lijiang to Shaxi just 90 minutes. The local government, keen to protect Shaxi's unique cultural heritage, is working with a conservation team that aims to create a sustainable travel strategy for the valley, encouraging activities that provide ownership opportunities for local families.
Despite its proximity to the two of the busiest tourist locations in the country, Shaxi remains a quiet, sleepy region that attracts environmentally aware visitors, rather than coach loads of hungry souvenir shoppers. Here the attractions are the unspoiled countryside, millennia of history and the rich, local culture.

The Shaxi Old Theatre Inn is not just the only historically listed Shaxi heritage hotel, but a much needed retreat from China's breakneck development, and at mealtimes it becomes a foodies' paradise to boot. The converted schoolhouse building has just five guest rooms, each with a cosy western en suite, slate tile rain shower, and large clerestory windows to soak up that warm winter sun. Alongside this is a main dining area, where guests can sample the very best in Bai cuisine as well as yummy western comfort food, including fresh apple cobbler, quince and fig cheesecake and homemade walnut bread. The centerpiece is the temple theater building, an opera stage and shrine to the God of Culture built in the early Qing Dynasty, fully restored as part of the Shaxi Rehabilitation project (SRP). The ground floor is storage space for mountain bikes, so that visitors can head off and explore the valley, while there are often calligraphy classes given in English by the current partner, Wu Yunxin, on the first floor. This leads out to the stage area, where the traditions of Bai music are being revived, and local elders perform for visiting dinner guests.
With its expansive views across the rice fields, this is the ideal location to relax on the front terrace with a freshly brewed Yunnan coffee, and watch the sun sink slowly behind the Hengduan Mountains. Despite the intricately carved construction, the hefty sandstone flagstones and the bucolic rural location, Old Theatre Inn has all the modern comforts needed to keep city folk happy. 24-hr broadband wireless Internet, lovely English-speaking local village Bai staff, complimentary western breakfasts and private car pick ups, all mean that guest comfort is in no way compromised by the tranquil, rural setting. Guests from all over the world repeatedly confirm that a visit the the Old Theatre Inn is a once in lifetime experience.

Shaxi Ancient Town

In this age of long haul flights and high speed trains, it is hard to believe that a properly sealed road first linked the Shaxi Valley to the outside world as recently as 2009. The cobbles of the original thoroughfare are still clearly visible in many places, but the new road has taken a great deal of pressure away from the Shaxi ancient town of Sideng 寺登 (Sì dēng). What remains is a fascinating window onto a China that has long disappeared in the rest of the country. Shaxi ancient town is still criss-crossed with narrow alleys that once rang out to the clang of heavily shod pack horses, but now form a fascinating maze for intrepid, curious travelers. While the main square is the perfect antidote to the endless package groups of Lijiang, the very best time to view this sanctuary of calm is first thing in the morning or very late at night. This is the perfect spot for Tai Chi exercises in the early dawn light, or literary inspiration in the ebbing rays of late afternoon. Ornate compound gates and entrance passages lead to courtyard microcosms of Bai home-life that have sometimes barely changed in the last forty centuries. Many of what were once tack shops, blacksmiths and caravanserais have already been converted into guest houses and souvenir stores, while others maintain their original function as homes to people and animals alike. Rammed earth and gravity defying eaves guide visitors down narrow alleys, where prickly pear cacti are a natural precursor to tall barbed wire fences, and sinuous bougainvillea splash the earthen tones with explosions of purple blooms.
At one time the small square was home to a bustling market nearly every day of the week, but this has now been relocated to the new part of town and is known as Shaxi Friday Market. The ancient flag stones that surround the central pagoda tree are encouraging a new community of hikers, history buffs and eco-tourists. In the last century, Shaxi's Sideng market went from thriving economic center to a remote and inaccessible ghost town, but this national landmark is now undergoing a twenty-first century renaissance, and promises to become one of the most impressive attractions in all of Yunnan. Out beyond the East Gate is the ancient Yujin Bridge, a long time favorite of visiting artists and a vital crossing point in this complex network of ancient trade routes. Its classic humpback construction makes it an ever popular photo opportunity with visitors.